Belém
The tower in the river, monastery stonework and wide gardens.
Location · Baixa
Lisbon's grand riverside square is vast, flat and framed by yellow arcades, with the Rua Augusta Arch on one side and marble steps leading into the Tagus on the other. At sunrise it is one of the most spectacular — and emptiest — places in the city.
Praça do Comércio was rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake as the grand entrance to the city from the river. Arcaded yellow buildings line three sides, a bronze statue of King José I stands in the middle, and the Rua Augusta Arch leads into the Baixa. On the fourth side, the Cais das Colunas — two stone columns and marble steps — runs straight down into the Tagus.
For photos it gives you three completely different looks within two minutes' walk: the symmetry of the arch, the open sky and water at the river steps, and the rhythm of the arcades.
The square faces the river to the south. From autumn to spring the sun rises over the water to the south-east, almost in front of the Cais das Colunas; in summer it comes up further to the left, over the eastern riverside. Either way the river turns gold, the arch catches the first light and the square is almost empty apart from a few runners. By mid-morning it fills with tour groups, tuk-tuks and street sellers.
It is flat, open and easy to reach by metro, with space for kids to move and plenty of cafés for a break afterwards. Strollers and wheelchairs are no problem here, which is why we often start family sessions at the square and walk west along the river.
The yellow façades and blue sky suit whites, blues, greens and neutrals. Avoid mustard and bright yellow — you would disappear into the buildings.
On the 15th of March the sun rises at 06:48. We meet at the Cais das Colunas at 06:35, shoot the river steps as the sky colours, move to the square and the arch at 07:05, then walk through the arcades and west along Ribeira das Naus until about 07:40. The whole route is flat.
From October to March the sun rises over the river in front of the square, and sunrise is at a civilised hour. In summer the light is just as beautiful, only earlier.
Questions
It is pleasant, but the best light on the river is at sunrise. For sunset we prefer the viewpoints or Belém.
Yes, it is one of the flattest and most accessible locations in central Lisbon.
Yes, at sunrise it is quiet and dramatic. Later in the day it is too busy for a private moment.
We shoot under the arcades around the square.
Related
The tower in the river, monastery stonework and wide gardens.
Space to play, relaxed timing and everyone in the picture.
Fifteen iconic spots and the best time to find each one empty.
Availability
Share your travel dates, the kind of session you have in mind and roughly how many people. We reply with available times, the best light for your date and a route that fits.