Alfama photoshoot: Santa Luzia, Portas do Sol and the old lanes

Best light

Sunrise to 9:30

Crowds

Heavy from 10:00

Good for

Proposals, couples, solo

Access

Tram 28 / taxi; steps

Why Alfama works so well for photos

Alfama survived the 1755 earthquake better than most of Lisbon, so its street plan is still medieval: narrow alleys called becos, little squares, stairways and archways, all stacked on the slope below São Jorge Castle. For photos it means intimacy — every corner is a frame — and a view of terracotta roofs and the Tagus from almost anywhere near the top.

Two viewpoints anchor our Alfama sessions. Miradouro de Santa Luzia has walls of blue-and-white azulejo panels and a pergola covered in bougainvillea, looking out over the rooftops and the river. A few steps away, Largo das Portas do Sol opens up a wider view with the white dome of São Vicente de Fora and the National Pantheon.

The route we usually take

1. Santa Luzia pergola and tiles — first light on the azulejos while the terrace is empty.
2. Portas do Sol — the wide rooftop view and the river, perfect for a proposal or a couple portrait.
3. Down through the lanes — stairways, doorways and washing lines on the way towards the Sé, Lisbon's cathedral.
4. Tram corner — if you want a yellow tram in the frame, we know where it passes slowly and you can stand safely aside.

The walk is all downhill if we start at the top, which is why we meet at the viewpoints. A taxi or Tram 28 will drop you nearby.

When to go

At sunrise the sun comes up over the river to the east, lighting the rooftops and the tiles with soft, warm light, and the viewpoints are almost empty. From about 10:00 the tour groups and tuk-tuks arrive, and Tram 28 queues form nearby. Late afternoon is lovely too — the lanes glow — but the viewpoints are busy until sunset. Check the sunrise times for your month.

Who we photograph here

Alfama is our first choice for sunrise proposals — a quiet viewpoint, a huge view and no audience — and for couples who want a romantic, classic Lisbon look. It is less ideal for families with strollers because of the steps; for them we prefer Praça do Comércio or Belém.

What to wear in Alfama

Soft colours that pick up the tiles — white, cream, pale blue, blush — look beautiful here, and a single strong colour (red, cobalt, yellow) pops against the pastel walls. Wear shoes with grip: the polished limestone steps are slippery, especially in the morning dew.

A 60-minute Alfama route with timings

Here is how a Classic session runs on the 15th of April (sunrise 07:01): meet at Santa Luzia at 06:50, tiles and pergola until 07:15, Portas do Sol until 07:30, then down the lanes towards the cathedral, finishing around 07:50 near the Sé with the tram bells starting up. In winter everything moves about an hour later, which makes sunrise sessions very easy.

Combine Alfama with

• Praça do Comércio — a ten-minute walk downhill for the arch and the river steps.
• Senhora do Monte and Graça — for an evening session that ends at sunset.

Best months

Every month works at sunrise. From May to September start early for comfort; in June the Santo António festivities fill Alfama with decorations and street parties — beautiful for photos, but very busy around the 12th and 13th.